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The GMT-Master was originally developed in 1955 as a tool watch for Pan American World Airways pilots who needed to track multiple time zones simultaneously. Its signature feature — a rotating 24-hour bezel paired with an additional GMT hand — became the definitive dual-timezone complication.
The 'Pepsi' nickname refers to the iconic red and blue bezel, which allows the wearer to distinguish day from night hours in a second time zone at a glance. The red half represents daytime hours, the blue half nighttime.
History
Design evolution
The original Ref. 6542 arrived in 1955 with a Bakelite bezel insert. It evolved through the Ref. 1675 (1959–1980), the Ref. 16750 (1981–1988), and the Ref. 16710 (1989–2007), each refining the design while keeping the essential character intact.
In 2018, Rolex stunned the watch world by reintroducing the Pepsi colorway on an Oyster bracelet with the Ref. 126710BLRO, featuring the new Caliber 3285 movement. The ceramic Cerachrom bezel insert solved the long-standing challenge of producing a two-tone ceramic bezel — a feat previously thought impossible.
The GMT-Master II remains one of the most sought-after sport watches in existence, with authorized dealer waitlists stretching years.
Caliber
The movement
The current GMT-Master II houses the Rolex Caliber 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The movement features Rolex's Chronergy escapement and a Parachrom hairspring resistant to shocks and magnetic fields. The independently adjustable hour hand allows the wearer to set local time without stopping the watch or disturbing the GMT hand.
Notable wearers
Who wears it
Marlon Brando
Wore a GMT-Master during the filming of Apocalypse Now (1979)
Clint Eastwood
Frequently spotted wearing a Pepsi GMT-Master in the 1960s and 70s
Pablo Picasso
Owned a GMT-Master, fitting for the artist's jet-setting lifestyle
Tom Selleck
Wore a GMT-Master as Thomas Magnum in Magnum, P.I.
John Mayer
Known collector with multiple GMT-Master variants including vintage Pepsi references
On screen
Film & television
Apocalypse Now
Colonel Kurtz (Marlon Brando)
Magnum, P.I.
Thomas Magnum (Tom Selleck)
Goldfinger
Pussy Galore (Honor Blackman)
Design
What makes it iconic
The Pepsi bezel is arguably the most recognizable color scheme in all of watchmaking. The red-blue combination is not merely aesthetic — it was a functional choice, allowing pilots to instantly distinguish AM from PM hours in their reference time zone.
Key design elements that define the GMT-Master: the arrow-tipped GMT hand (usually in a contrasting color), the 24-hour graduated bezel, the Cyclops lens over the date window, and the robust Oyster case with a screw-down crown and Triplock seal.
For builders
Build your own
The GMT-Master is one of the most popular homage targets in the Seiko modding community. The NH35 movement does not have a true GMT complication, but modders recreate the aesthetic with Pepsi bezel inserts, GMT-style hand sets (with a decorative fourth hand), and cases that echo the GMT-Master's proportions.
Building a Pepsi GMT homage on the NH35 platform typically costs $200–350 in parts, compared to the $15,000+ retail price of the genuine article — making it one of the most compelling value propositions in the modding world.
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